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Toyota RAV4 FAQs

What's So Great About the RAV4?

The Toyota RAV4s are Toyota's entry in the small Sport-Utility Vehicle (SUV) market. They appeared at dealers in the US in February 1996. They have received many favorable reviews and have a combination of economy, sporty feel, and attractive styling.

Here are some opinions from the RAV4 mailing list:

Advantages:

Toyota reliability
Good fuel economy
Good light-duty off-road capability
Good handling; sporty, car-like feel
Aftermarket part & accessory availability
Distinctive styling

Disadvantages:

Purchase price
Engine noise
Lack of Engine Power
Fragile front and rear bumpers
Expensive to repair body damage
Inaccessible cup holders (improved for '98)
Distinctive styling

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Is the RAV4 safe?

Crash testing of vehicles is done by the National Highway Traffic Safety Agency (NHTSA) http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/. The following was summarized from their web site information; go there for complete details.

The RAV4's crash test performance was about average. Cars are tested against other cars in their size and weight class. The RAV4 rated 3 Stars (out of 5), indicating a 21 to 35 percent chance of serious injury in a head-on 35 MPH crash with a similar vehicle. These overall results combine the head and chest injury measurements, and the same rating was given to both the driver and front-seat passenger.

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Can I order a RAV4 with only the options I want?

In the US, some regions allow factory orders and some do not. In regions that do allow factory orders, not all dealers allow them. If your dealer does take factory orders, you can expect to wait at least several months for the car to be shipped. If you have information about which regions do or do not allow factory orders, let me know so I can add that here.

Some dealers say they will take a factory order, when in fact they don't. These dealers simply wait for a car that matches or nearly matches your order to arrive by chance. They may be able to access information about all vehicles shipped to your region and/or swap cars with another dealer.

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Where do I get one of those cute little paper RAV4 models?

You can't. These were included in the 1996 RAV4 US brochure and are no longer available. The model is a clever heavy paper cutout that you fold and insert tabs into slots to form a '96 Bright Red 2-Door RAV4. However, you can get a scanned-in version online that you can print with your color printer onto thick paper stock and get a reasonable imitation.

See: http://rav4world.com/index/foldup.html.

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How does the RAV4 compare to the competition?

This is a very subjective area, but in general, the RAV4 compares very well to it's competition. People like the RAV4 for it's combination of visual appeal ("cuteness"), good fuel economy, versatile FT 4WD system (fair off-road and excellent on-road), comfort, space, handling, acceleration, accessibility, and reliability.

The RAV4 does have it's drawbacks, notably it's styling, lack of power, lack of space (compared to full-size sport-utilities), cheap construction in places, crashworthiness, mediocre sound system, and interior noise levels.

Primary U.S. competitors as compared to the RAV4:

Honda CR-V: much more conservative styling (often compared to a minivan), reactive 4WD system. Same reliability as Toyota, more interior room, more powerful engine. Worse off-road performance.

Kia Sportage: Cheap. Poor engineering touches all around. Rough ride, uncomfortable seating, difficult access to cargo area.

Subaru Forrester: Styling like a station wagon. Very car-like ride, low ground clearance, comfortable. Reactive 4WD system, similar to CR-V. Fuel efficient. Full-featured, excellent value.

Suzuki Grand Vitara: Poor construction dominates the overall comments about this vehicle; inexpensive, but shows it. More horsepower, but doesn't seem to use it well, and correspondingly worse gas mileage. Good off-road vehicle for the price.

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How do I "break in" my new RAV4?

"For those interested (and many of you might be as you'd have a new RAV4), these are some of the things I do when I run-in a new vehicle. The process is usually useful for the first 5,000 kms or 3,500 miles. (Disclaimer: If you choose to follow any of the tips here, I accept no responsibility for any damage or loss resulting).

First of all, why run-in a new vehicle? The reason is that the manufacturing process of metal parts leaves them with some minute imperfections and also they are being mated against other parts. Running-in enables these parts to interface more smoothly by causing a certain degree of beneficial wear and also by wearing down the imperfections. Note that they aren't defects in any sense. A visible example would be on new tires where you see stuff that looks like 'hair' sticking out. As you drive around, they get worn off.

Over the past decade, manufacturing processes have improved a lot and the parts are coming out more perfect in form and tolerances are finer. So the running-in process is not as crucial - but still important - as before when you even had to use special oil which permitted a higher wear rate.

New engines are tight because everything's new so some degree of wear has to occur to allow them to rev freely. But unlike a decade or two ago, you don't have to be as 'religious' about running-in and I note that the manuals are now providing only basic and simple advice. In fact, the notion of treating a new engine with tender loving care contrasts to what you will find if you visit an engine factory. The new engines, after assembly but before installation in the car, are run at high revs by a computer. It provides some running-in and also allows for checking of integrity or whatever. But to see it being done can be quite shocking!

You still need to run-in a new car and engine, allow the various parts to bed in and function with each other efficiently. This calls for thoughtful driving strategies but they are not necessarily boring. The main thing to remember is not to allow your engine to load up, meaning you don't try to drive it up an incline in top gear and labor the engine. The load is bad for the engine at any time, more so when it's brand new. The effects can be long-lasting and ruin the engine's ability to give its best for the rest of its life.

Even if you have an autobox, it's a good idea to manually disengage the overdrive on an incline or even slot into 2nd. You won't hurt the engine by doing that and you will even do it a favor if you help it to run up the incline with less effort. Using the gearbox, auto or manual, liberally is a good way to run it in and you will be rewarded by a smoother unit later on.

Varying the speed is also an important point and it is mentioned in the manual. This exercise is intended to get your engine used to high and low revving conditions. If you have cruise control, don't use it for at least 3,500 miles because the constant speed is not good. Even on the highway, you should vary your speed a lot. You can do so as you drive by using lower gears and shifting up and down.

But you should also pay attention to what rpm you run up to. For the first few 100 miles, maybe you shouldn't get past 4000 rpm. Then you can gradually go higher and by maybe 1500 miles, you can start to push it to 5000 rpm. Do not run it up to 5000 rpm and just hold it there; rev it up as you're driving and change up quickly when you get to 5000 rpm.

When you get up to 2000 miles or more, maybe you might like to try running it up to the redline for brief spurts. I learnt that this is helpful for the engine from a racing driver and mechanic. You accelerate in 2nd gear up the the redline and shift up right away. Don't hold it there longer than a shift action. Why? The high revs give the engine a 'taste' of that sort of condition and prepares it for the ability to cope with such conditions. It's like when you do a high-speed run down the highway and after that, the engine feels nice and free-revving (although that's more of the oil being well circulated too).

If you stick to low revs all the time, there is a possibility that your engine will remain tight and unwilling to give all its potential when you want to drive hard and fast. I have experienced engines where the owners really pussy-footed them in the run-in period and they never had an edge in performance compared to other similar engines.

The manual doesn't seem to recommend an oil change at 1000 km (600 mi) but I am used to it and will do so. No harm and the only thing that will be hurt is my pocket. I personally believe that the first 600 miles are a time of great wear inside and so the oil will have a lot of metal stuff in it. The filter will remove it, of course, but it's still there and it's minute too. I'd rather get rid of the dirty oil and have some new oil inside; besides, the original oil is of unknown quality to me although I'm sure Toyota would use something good enough. The next oil change would be at 5000 kms or 3500 miles, but you can follow the interval indicated in your manual.

For the brakes, I also take a bit of care. You need to brake a lot to run-in the new pads but you also have to be cautious about how hard you brake. Excessive pressure on new pads can cause them to glaze over and that's going to reduce braking power. Some people drive around with a very light pressure for a while to wear them out a bit but you need to really be deliberate about that.

Other things: I like to use Rain-X, a liquid which makes the glass very slippery so that water beads off easily. I put it on the front and back, the front side windows and the door mirrors. It's corrosive so don't let it get on your paintwork!

I also like to spray on fabric protector which helps to stop moisture from seeping in (most of the time).

And I've earlier mentioned the point about loose screws and bolts. Take a screwdriver and small spanner (preferably a box type) and gently tighten the fasterners you can see. Not too tight but if you find them able to take another turn, then do so. From experience, I've always found the bolts holding the front fenders to the body (along the side of the engine bay) to be less than tight (same thing in the RAV4)."

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When should I change the oil the first time, and what kind should I use?

Some people think that a lot of metal particles and assorted gunk collect during the break-in period, so they get the oil changed at around 500-1500 miles, or 800-2400 km. You should then follow the schedule in your owner's manual (every 7500 miles (12000 km) for regular service, or every 3750 miles (6000 km) for severe service) as the minimum oil change interval. The extra oil change is considered by many to be cheap insurance. Also, average driving often falls under "severe" conditions that require more frequent oil changes.

The manual recommends using 5W-30 or 10W-30 SG oil, depending on the expected temperature during the oil's service life. The 10W-30 should not be used under extreme cold conditions (below 0 F). You can use a conventional oil, or synthetic. Synthetic oil has better heat and cold handling characteristics, and resists viscosity breakdown much better than conventional oil, but is significantly more expensive.

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How does the Four Wheel Drive (4WD) system work?

Very well :) Actually, it depends on your choice of transmission, and whether you have the Limited-Slip Differential (LSD) option. See the Traction Adding Devices FAQ http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/diffs.htm for more general information on these types of devices.

If you have a 2-Wheel-Drive RAV4, then it is powered by the front wheels only.

If you have 4WD, a full-time system puts power down to all four wheels at all times. Some refer to this as an "all-wheel drive" system, rather than 4WD, but AWD usually refers to "reactive" systems that delay transfer of power until after slip is detected. The RAV4 drive system is most correctly called "Full-time 4 wheel drive." It is reported that 25% of the engine power is normally sent to each wheel.

For automatic transmissions, there is a center coupling that detects wheel slip and gradually locks the front and rear axles as the slip increases. There are no driver controls for this feature.
For manual transmissions, there is a center differential lock button on the dashboard that manually locks the front and rear axles. When engaging, an amber "C. Diff Lock" indicator lights on the dashboard. When disengaging, there will be a beeping sound until the center differential is fully disengaged; it may beep just once, or may beep for as much as a full minute (seems to beep longer when cold). Toyota recommends that it only be used only in difficult situations, and that the center differential can be damaged if used improperly.
For 4WD vehicles, there is an optional rear LSD available. In 1996 and 1997 model year, it was available only on standard transmission models, but starting in 1998, the rear LSD is available in all 4WD models. This device is called a "Torsen-type" LSD by Toyota, and is one of the most sophisticated and effective types available. It automatically detects wheel slip by either rear wheel and redirects the most power to the wheel that is slipping the least. There are no driver controls required for this device.

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What should I expect when Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS) engage?

You should get feedback in the form of an audible "chunk chunk chunk" sound AND a strong pulsing of the brake pedal. This is normal and you should NOT release the pressure on the brake pedal or attempt to modulate the brake pedal pressure. If you live in the snow belt, a good way to test your ABS is to find an open, snow-covered area, drive to about 30MPH, and slam on the brakes as hard as you can. The described effect should be obvious.

Warning: Don't test or show off your ABS system until after the break-in period, because it can create hot spots that can cause excessive brake system wear.

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How can I keep from getting a shock when I exit my RAV4?

Method 1: Get a conductive strap that bolts to the frame - when you stop, the end contacts the ground and bleeds the charge off the car. These work well, but wear out rather quickly.

Method 2: Keep your hand on the edge of the door (or any metal part) as you exit the vehicle.

Method 3: Whenever you exit your vehicle, hold your key and make sure that the first thing you touch after you exit is made of metal, and that you touch it with your key first. This will dissipate any static electricity.

Method 4: a quick spray of a product such as Static Guard also helps to eliminate the static buildup from rubbing on the cloth seats. (Thanks to Jim Janecek <Janecek@Tezcat.com>)

Method 5: Drive naked. Then you won't build up any static electricity between you and your clothes. If you wet your pants, that should dissipate the excess charge as well. <g>

Also from Jim Janecek:

"You might want to also check the type of tires on vehicle, if they are 'low rolling resistance' tires they may have more of a silicone base instead of a carbon base and this does not allow the static charge that normally builds up on a object moving through the air to disperse through the tires. The silicone base is more of an insulator than the carbon base.

Unfortunately, I don't have a list of what tires have the silicone base and what have the usual carbon base in them.

I just know that Michelin had a series of 'low rolling resistance' tires that came as factory standard on some recent (2-3 year old) model Hondas and they would not allow the static buildup to bleed off into the ground through the tires, so when you stopped at a toll booth and touched the tollbooth operator, the operator would get a real big shock."

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What should the fuel economy (Miles per Gallon) be?

First, remember that your MPG will vary depending on many factors:

how far you are into your break-in period.
whether you have 2WD or 4WD (4WD reduces fuel economy).
automatic or manual transmission (manuals are generally better).
whether you run the air conditioning (A/C reduces fuel economy).
cars that are sold in California and Massachusetts (others?) are required to have the "CA" emissions option that can reduce mileage.
many states now require "oxygenated" fuels [MBTE additive] in cold weather or even year-round (can reduce fuel economy).
using a roof rack or other accessories can increase drag and reduce fuel economy.
adverse weather can reduce fuel economy.
bad driving habits (fast acceleration, riding the brake, etc) can reduce fuel economy.
increasing tire pressure can improve fuel economy slightly due to reduced rolling resistance.

To compute MPG, you should average stats over a number of fillups and make sure you fill your gas tank to the same level each time, preferably using the same gas pump at the same station, if practical.

The Environmental Protection Agency http://www.epa.gov tests all vehicles sold in the US and publishes fuel economy estimates. The RAV4 mileage depends on transmission and whether the vehicle has 4WD:

For 2001: